Close your pool right in the fall to have a great spring!
They say all good things must come to an end. In the Midwest, that’s a sad but true reality for inground pool season. It’s nearing time to close the pool. To ensure a quick and easy spring fiberglass pool opening, close it properly in the fall. So, here’s a list of five fantastic tips to close your fiberglass pool right.
Balance your water chemistry. We recommend having your water tested by a professional. If your pool maintenance schedule is a little out of whack because you’ve been in it less since school started, achieving a properly balanced pool can take a couple of days, so don’t wait until the day before closing to check levels. While test strips are good for a quick dip test, you should have a professional do a complete water analysis. A complete water analysis will check all important chemistry levels including, but not limited to, total alkalinity, pH, free chlorine, total chlorine, calcium hardness, salt, stabilizer, metals and total dissolved solids. Remember, clean and sparkling pool water does not always mean that your pool water is properly balanced. Looks can be deceiving. Some of the prettiest pool water can be the most destructive.
Wipe down the scum line (or tile line.) Body oils, suntan lotions, and airborne contaminants can sometimes build up on the pool surface along the water line. These can easily be wiped away. Microfiber cloths work great. If necessary, you can use a mild detergent, fiberglass or vinyl cleaner. Remember to never use abrasive cleaners, automatic dish detergent, steel wool, metal scrapers, or other brushes or tools because they can cause permanent damage to your beautiful gel coat finish.
Give it a final clean. A few days before your closing, give your pool a final clean. Skim off any debris floating on the top and vacuum any debris or leaves that may have settled on the bottom of the pool. This is also an excellent time to rinse off your pool deck and automatic safety cover tracks.
Add your winterizing chemicals. The day before your pool pros are scheduled to come, add in your winterization chemicals. They’ll need several hours to circulate before your pump is shut off. Clean out your skimmer basket and remove any remaining debris that may be in the pool.
Tidy up. Take the time now to organize and properly store your chemicals. Give your deck furniture and cushions a good cleaning (or you might want to leave them out for any warm and sunny days still to come). Sort through the pool toys, noodles and floats. Toss any that you plan to replace next year and tuck the rest away.
That’s it! Once you’ve zipped through this list, you’ll be prepared for your pool pros to come and finish the job so you can look forward to an easy spring opening.
Certainly, a pool that’s never used is a shame. The space it takes up in the backyard could be used for other things, like a garden, playset or a big lawn for touch football games. And a pool that’s fallen into disrepair due to age or lack of pool maintenance isn’t enhancing anyone’s life or living space.
What to do?Â
Well, depending on what type of pool you have, here are some options.
Renovate or repair it. If you have a vinyl liner pool with a torn or worn liner, you can replace the liner and bring new life to your pool. A gunite (concrete) pool might need a resurfacing to restore it to its original glory. Unlike fiberglass, both vinyl and gunite pools tend to provide an environment that’s attractive to algae, so if you’re looking outside at green water in your pool, you’ll probably need to enlist the services of a pool professional near you to clear up your water, restore your water chemistry balance and see if there’s underlying damage to your pool that needs to be addressed.
Remove it. If your kids are grown and out of the house, or they are too busy with sports and other extracurricular activities to spend time in the pool with their friends, it might be time to remove your inground pool. However, keep in mind that it’s no small job, and there can be significant costs involved. Removal and fill for a moderately sized gunite pool can cost up to $20,000. Fiberglass and vinyl will cost less, as the materials are lighter weight. Also remember that inground pools typically increase a home’s value. So, this is not a decision to be made lightly. If your old gunite or vinyl liner pool is beyond repair, or, if you’re simply tired of all the pool maintenance involved, there is another way! You can choose to…
Replace it. If you still love the idea of having a pool, but just need a fresh start, you can replace your existing pool. And if you do, a fiberglass inground pool is the way to go. Over the last 20 years, fiberglass pool manufacturers have made huge strides in terms of quality, features, installation innovations, available colors and designs. You can even get a beach entry (zero entry) fiberglass pool today (Patent US 10,358,837 and 10,472,839). This feature was previously only available in high-end, custom gunite pool installations. Recently, sunken living area fiberglass pools have also been introduced to the market. So, the sky’s the limit in terms of how you can transform your current pool area, and turn it into a true backyard swimming pool oasis that your friends and family will all enjoy. Your pool area can once again be the go-to party spot and a beautiful addition to your home.
Fix it or replace it? So, the choice is yours. Will you fix it or replace it? There’s no one right answer. The swimming pool lifestyle is not for everyone, but the people who really do use their pools enjoy all the health benefits that regular swimming exercise can bring, including chronic pain relief, weight loss and stress reduction. They also enjoy the social aspect of spending time with their friends, kids and grandkids in the pool (and it’s often tech-free, or at least low-tech usage time) while folks are playing water games, visiting on the built-in benches or tanning ledges, and genuinely connecting with each other. And you can’t put a price tag on that.
We’re getting a new fiberglass pool this summer! We’ve chosen our fiberglass pool design and our add-on features. Now, we’re wondering what kind of filtration system we should get. We’ve heard pros and cons about both cartridge filtration systems and sand filtration systems. We want what’s best for our pool long-term, but of course we’re excited about low pool maintenance too. What guidance can you give us?
Signed- Figuring out filtration in Fairfield
Dear Figuring in Fairfield-
Great question! If you’re a regular reader of my articles, you’ve heard me talk about sand filtration already. Cartridge filters are great too. There’s no one system that’s superior to the other, and I’ve used both over the years. But, let’s see if we can filter through some more details and help you choose what’s best for you.
Let’s first take a look at how they work.
Sand filters
Sand filters work quite simply by pushing your pool water through sand that catches the dirt and debris and returns clean water into the pool. You clean your sand filter by backwashing it. This means running water backwards through the filter until the filter is clean. Sand filters are a pretty popular option for residential inground pools.
Sand filter maintenance
Sand filters require very little maintenance, other than the aforementioned backwashing. You’ll need to replace the sand every 2-4 years, depending on how often you use your pool.
Cartridge filters
Cartridge filters have a single layer of filter media made of synthetic fabrics attached in pleats to a cylindrical core. Water is pumped through the filter and passes through the cartridge, trapping dirt and debris in the fabric. Some spas and above-ground pools have a cartridge incorporated in the skimmer. You’ll need to make sure you’ve chosen the appropriately sized filter for your pool.
Cartridge filter maintenance
Cartridge filters must be manually removed to be cleaned. When the filter gauge increases 8 to 10 psi over normal (or, your water flow is visibly reduced), it’s time to clean them. It’s a great idea to keep an extra set of cartridge filters handy, so that you can swap them out when one set is being cleaned. However, with each cleaning, you’ll only recover about 60 percent efficacy. So, after three or four cleanings, you’ll probably have to buy new filters. However, cartridge filters cut energy costs because they require less pump pressure.
Which filtration system is best for you? It depends.
How important is water clarity?
Both systems will give you clear water. But for the absolute best water clarity, cartridge filters win.
Cartridge filters typically screen out twice as much dirt and debris as sand filters do. A cartridge filter takes out so fine a particle that your water actually glistens. It can really be witnessed at night when your pool lights are on. That little foggy halo of tiny particles that the light displays is greatly reduced.
Where do you live?
For areas that tend to be debris-heavy, sand filters are your best bet.
For example, I live in an established neighborhood with very little dirt and debris floating around in the air. Therefore, I enjoyed the cartridge system and only cleaned the filters once a season, when I closed the pool for the winter. The filters lasted about four years, but were expensive to replace. However, my daughter lives in the country, and her pool is surrounded by corn, and soybean fields. The dust and pollen factors are very high, especially when the fields are freshly plowed or harvested. She had a devil of a time with her cartridge system because she needed to clean it out so often. It’s time-consuming to take a filter apart, soak it and put it back together. And the more often you clean it, the more often it will need to be replaced. We changed her to a sand filter, and it was smooth sailing from there! And obviously, if you’re planning an indoor pool, cartridge filters are absolutely your best bet.
Ask the pros
You can always consult with your pool professional for advice on what type of pool filtration system will work best for the area you live in and how you plan to use and care for your pool. They can also make recommendations about manufacturers. No matter which system you choose, you’ll love the durability and low-maintenance that a fiberglass pool offers. Happy swimming!
Spring finally made it! The weather is warming up, and the summer swim season is almost upon us. We’re ready! We’re dreaming of spending our days relaxing in our inground fiberglass pool! When is the best time to open our pool?
Signed- Amping in Ann Arbor
Dear Amping–
Your pool opening and closing schedule will vary based on where you live. But the short answer for YOU is … now! Once we’re past the danger of a damaging freeze, it’s time to kick it into gear. The sooner you get your fiberglass inground pool open, the sooner you’ll be having fun in the sun with all your family and friends. While you may have already scheduled a pool maintenance pro to come and open up your pool, there are still some things you can do to get the ball rolling so you’ll be in the swim ASAP.
Here are some things you should be thinking about right now in order to maximize your swimming time in the days to come:
Check your water level. Even with your pool tightly covered, water will find its way out over the winter. Your water level needs to be up to mid-way on your skimmer before you remove your pool cover. Groundwater levels are often at their highest in the spring (especially if you got a lot of snow in the winter). If you don’t keep your groundwater pressure equalized, you can cause catastrophic damage to your fiberglass inground pool.
Remove your pool cover. After you’re sure your water level is correct, pump off any water on top of the pool cover. Make sure you’re pumping AWAY from your pool so you’re not just adding more groundwater around it. If you have a leaf blower, you might use that to blow off any leaves or other debris. After that, the process depends on which kind of pool cover you have.
Automatic pool covers.You’ve heard me speak the virtues of automatic pool covers before, and hopefully you have one. Your pool opening is sure easier if you do. Make sure you’re opening it gradually with your touchpad, checking to make sure your cover isn’t sticking or crooked in the tracks as you go.
Standard winter covers. Your winter cover needs to be properly removed, cleaned and sanitized to store away for your fall pool closing. Be sure to check with your cover’s manufacturer for removal instructions–each one is different. Removing it the wrong way can cause unwanted debris to fall into your water and contaminate it, making it more difficult to get your water healthfully balanced.
Check your equipment. Once your water is at the proper level, your cover is off, and you’ve skimmed off any large debris from removing the cover, you can turn on and check your pool equipment. Pumps, filters, filter media, skimmer baskets and lights that have been sitting idle in the elements all winter might need tuning up or replacing. The time to find that out is now, before swimming season kicks off. Most professional pool opening services will do a complete check and alert you to any problem areas or necessary repairs. If all is working well, leave your pump on and let the water circulate for at least 12 hours.
Check your pool water chemistry. Once your water has had a chance to circulate, you’ll need to test it to see where you’re starting out in terms of water balance. This can be very challenging at the start of the season. Whether or not you have a pool service pro open your pool, you might need help getting your water balanced after a long winter. Many swimming pool professionals provide a free, computerized water analysis that tests for many more water balance factors than a standard home test kit. It’s always a good idea to have your pool water professionally tested on a regular basis so that you’re keeping track of all the necessary components of balanced and healthy water. If you get your water properly balanced when you’re opening your pool, you’ll have an easier timekeeping your water chemistry balanced throughout the swim season.
Give the pool a spring cleaning. Now is the time to give your pool a good cleaning before the swim season gets underway. Start by scrubbing the pool walls. Be sure to use a soft brush or sponge when cleaning your pool walls, and avoid abrasives such as sandpaper and steel wool will damage the finish of your pool. After you’ve given the walls a good cleaning, it’s time to vacuum. Start from the shallow end and work your way down the slope of the pool. Be sure to clean thoroughly around the steps and other crevices where debris can accumulate.
Inspect your safety equipment and pool accessories. Your handrails and lifesavers need to be swim-ready by the time you are. Take time in the spring to inspect, maintain or replace safety equipment, fiberglass pool accessories and even outdoor furniture so that you can be ready to relax poolside on opening day!
Take some steps now to get as many tasks checked off your list to prepare your inground fiberglass pool for opening. Have a safe, fun, relaxing pool season. Almost time to float around and enjoy.
Our family got a new inground pool last summer, and our pool installer told us that we need to keep an eye on our groundwater pressure and levels in the springtime. What advice can you give us pool owner newbies about springtime pool maintenance, and what do I need to know about the possibility of groundwater damaging our pool in the spring?
Signed; Waiting for Spring in Walnut Ridge
Dear Waiting;
Your pool installer is correct. There IS quite a lot to think about in the spring, and the risks from excess groundwater pressure should be top-of-mind as we get ready to open our pools for the season.
When your pool was installed, your pool builder probably explained all about groundwater pressure and how their installation process was intended to protect your pool from it (along with a host of other forgotten tips). No one really expects pool owners to memorize every detail about their pools. So, I’m glad you asked about groundwater and spring pool maintenance. Here’s what you need to know:
Groundwater pressure is no joke.
I can’t stress this enough. Spring showers, coupled with thawing snow, saturate the ground around your pool. Your pool is probably backfilled with pea gravel, crushed gravel or sand. The backfill creates a natural place for groundwater to migrate and accumulate. Groundwater pressure is no joke.
On vinyl liner pools: Your liner can float. This is a very bad thing and will be an expensive fix. Your pool builder will have to drain the pool, control the surface water, fix any pool base that has washed out, reset the liner and then refill your pool, which means you’ll have to start over with water stabilization and treatment. To add insult to injury, this process can only take place when it’s warm enough to get the liner reset which means you’ll lose swim time. Another problem is that liners that float will develop wrinkles that may never go away, and you’ll have to choose between buying a new liner or living with the wrinkles.
On fiberglass pools and concrete pools: The force of excess groundwater can cause cracks in your pool walls. In extreme cases, such as flooding in the spring, both fiberglass pools and gunite (concrete) pools could potentially pop out of the ground, particularly if the water level is very low or the pool has been drained.
How your pool was installed and what your groundwater alleviation plan is.
To balance the pressure of groundwater as you’re taking off your cover and getting ready to open your pool for the spring, there are several systems pool builders use:
A sump pit. In my installing days, we always put a sump pit next to the pool (usually in the deck with a skimmer lid). Â This allowed a way to visually inspect and pump out any groundwater that had accumulated around the pool.
A wellpoint (also known as a driven point) system. Wellpoint systems consist of a series of small diameter wells that are connected by a header pipe to a wellpoint pump.
A pipe around the pool. Some installers will simply run a pipe from the over dig around the pool to a remote sump pit.
No matter what groundwater alleviation system your pool has, it’s important that you understand it and know what to look for and how to remedy groundwater pressure on your pool.
What’s under the cover.
Hopefully, you’ve kept an eye on your cover and the water level underneath it all winter. Now, it’s time to see what’s going on under there. Whether you have a standard winter cover or an automatic pool safety cover, your first step is to pump off the standing water. While you’re doing this, you need to add water to the pool to ensure that your water level is high enough to counteract groundwater pressure.
So, what have we learned? If you said, “Groundwater is no joke,” you win the grand prize. It’s physics. Groundwater pressure is a pretty basic concept. All the water has to go somewhere. So, take a minute now to go out to your pool and check your water level under your winter cover. You’ll save yourself time and money by keeping groundwater pressure at bay.
Until next time; The General
About the General
The General is our guest blogger. He speaks from years of pool building experience and shares his expertise with our readers monthly. He’s also a great storyteller and really fun at a party.
Believe me, you have absolutely no reason to feel badly. We all do the best we can, and some lessons are just learned the hard way.  However, since you’ve asked for a chuckle today, I’m happy to oblige. I do have a few stories up my sleeve from my years in the fiberglass pool biz.
We all have been told at one time or another by friends, teachers, and parents that there are no silly questions, just silly answers. In some circumstances, I believe there are both. To say a question or an answer is silly, can be embarrassing, and hurtful to whoever said it or asked it. Most of the time, we are not instructed completely, or the terminology used is completely foreign to us. I personally have that problem when talking to my grandson about computers. He is talking RAM, operating systems, and a whole myriad things that I have no idea what he is explaining to me.
Unfortunately, sometimes we just don’t completely communicate things we are familiar with to those who don’t. I also sometimes mistakenly think that new customers understand how things work. These are some of the things that people actually do that are our fault for not being specific when giving advice. On the other hand, people say and do some pretty funny things. Here are a few of my favorites:
SIMPLY SHOCKING.
I once had a new homeowner call me with a water problem. He said the water just didn’t sparkle and looked a little cloudy. I asked when the water had last been tested. He said they’d gone to the pool shop and were told to put some bags of shock into the pool. They did that, and it didn’t help. They were then advised to put two more bags in, but the water didn’t improve. I stopped by to troubleshoot thinking that there may be an issue with their filtration equipment. What did I find? The bags of shock laying on the bottom of the pool unopened. We fished them out with their dip net, OPENED THEM and poured the chemicals into the water. The customers’ response was, “We wondered how long it would take for those bags to dissolve!”
RECYCLING IS NOT ALWAYS A GOOD THING.
One customer was determined to save on water costs. So, he decided to put the backwash hose into the pool when he was backwashing to save water. Guess what? When you’re using the same hose to pull dirt of the pool that you would use to put water into the pool, you’re going to PUT DIRTY WATER IN YOUR POOL.
SERIOUSLY BLUE.
Another customer loved the idea of having beautiful blue water when he looked out his window. He did not seem to understand that the beautiful blue color in a fiberglass pool comes from the color of the pool’s walls–not the water itself. He asked me if he could add blue food coloring to his water to achieve this effect. I said, “Well, unless you want your entire family to look like Smurf’s, I would not recommend it.”
NO “FEESHES” ALLOWED.
Once, while I was traveling, we stayed at a motel with a pool. They had a sign posted at the pool that warned, “Do not put fish in the pool.” Confused by this, I asked the maintenance guy if they were having trouble with people putting fish in the water. And he said “no,” but someone told him that the health department would shut down the pool if they found fish in it. He didn’t know why. I asked, “Is it possible they said feces, not fish?” And he said, “Oh yeah. That makes a lot more sense.”
OVERINFLATED.
One customer called me, very upset because he was having trouble with the tubes for his winter cover. Even though he had filled them, they were not holding his cover in place and were not inflating properly. (The word “inflating” was my first clue to his troubles.) After a minute or two on the phone, I realized he was trying to fill the WATER tubes with AIR. His reply was, “Well, I inflated every other darn thing my wife bought all summer–I figured I needed to inflate those too!”
LANDSCAPING THE POOL.
I got a call for a renovation bid from a gentleman who had bought a house with an existing pool. He let me know that the pool wasn’t working properly and wanted an estimate to get it black into swimming shape. I asked him if he could send a photo of the pool. When I saw the photo, my answer to his request for an estimate was, “A lot.”
Maybe when someone told the previous owner to landscape his pool, he didn’t understand that they meant AROUND the pool, not IN IT. It might have been time for the guy to get a new pool. So, the next time you’re worried that you’re not doing a good job with your pool maintenance, take a look at this picture, and I’m sure you’ll feel better right away.
Thanks for asking. I enjoyed this topic, and trust me, I can and will share more in the future.
Whether you’re a do-it-yourself type or a big believer in delegation, you are ultimately responsible for your pool. And no one will care more about your investment than you. Factors such as your inground pool shape and type can affect pool maintenance and your decision to take on certain tasks. You can handle several routine tasks, but some require pool professionals. Let’s explore what you need to know about maintaining your inground pool.
Regularly Caring for Surfaces
Consistently cleaning the walls and floor are relatively easy tasks that should be completed as needed. You should plan on doing some of this yourself, even if you hire a weekly pool service.
Brushing the walls and surface prevents algae and bacteria from adhering to the surface and forming biofilms. The swimming experience is more enjoyable and safer, reducing the risk of slipping or stepping on debris.
Dirt and debris may settle in areas that have less circulation. Brushing surfaces allows it to get to the skimmer.
By removing debris and preventing clogging, vacuuming helps maintain the efficiency of the pool filter and pump system, prolonging their lifespan.
A skimmer net can get any leaves or other debris that may fall into your pool before they settle to the bottom or fill the skimmer basket.
A robotic pool cleaner and brush ensure debris, dirt, and algae don’t settle and build up in the pool. A soft brush or cloth is effective for wiping away organic material without damaging the surface of a vinyl or fiberglass pool. A stainless steel brush is more effective and safe on a concrete pool.Â
Maintaining Proper Water Level
Regardless of your pool type, maintaining the correct water level is a key aspect of pool care, ensuring a longer lifespan for the pool structure, preventing damage, and providing a safer and more enjoyable swimming environment.
Protects Pool Equipment: Proper water levels prevent pumps and skimmers from running dry, which can cause overheating, cavitation, or burnout. Maintaining the correct level avoids costly equipment repairs and replacements.
Optimizes Water Circulation: The appropriate water level ensures skimming function and efficient circulation
Improves Safety: Maintaining the correct water level reduces the risk of accidents, such as slipping on a wet deck due to splashing from overfilled pools.
Opening and Closing Your Pool
We recommend bringing in the pros for this one. Correctly opening and winterizing your pool is essential to prevent damage and ensure your pool starts the season off right and finishes in good shape for next year.Â
Often discovered during pool opening and closing, electrical issues, missing, broken, or cracked drain covers, and equipment issues are best left to those professionals with the proper tools and experience to service them and keep warranties intact.Â
Routinely performing other pool maintenance tasks, keeping your pool clean, and doing checks will help prepare your pool for closing, ensuring a smooth process with fewer hiccups in the future and allowing you to save time and money.
Prioritizing Water Balance
Whether you do it yourself or hire a pro, become as much of an expert as possible on your pool’s water chemistry. The more you educate yourself, the easier it will be to find a pool professional you can trust with your maintenance.
Improperly balanced pool water can lead to various types of damage to pool surfaces and structures, depending on the type of pool—vinyl, fiberglass, or gunite. Each type has specific vulnerabilities when exposed to unbalanced water chemistry. Here’s an overview of the potential damage for each:
Vinyl Pools
Fading and Discoloration: High chlorine levels or low pH can cause the vinyl liner to fade or become discolored over time.
Wrinkling and Stretching: High alkalinity or calcium hardness can cause the vinyl liner to wrinkle or stretch, leading to an uneven pool surface.
Brittleness and Cracking: Low pH can cause vinyl liners to become brittle and more prone to cracking and tearing, which may lead to costly repairs or replacement.
Algae Growth: Improper sanitizer levels (e.g., chlorine or bromine) can encourage algae growth, making the surface slippery and eventually staining the liner.
Gunite (Concrete) Pools
Surface Etching and Scaling: Low pH or low calcium hardness can lead to etching, where the plaster or surface material of the pool is worn away, creating a rough and pitted surface. Conversely, high pH and high calcium hardness can cause scaling, where calcium deposits form on the surface.
Staining: Imbalanced water chemistry, especially improper metal ion levels, can lead to staining. Metal ions like iron, copper, and manganese can cause stains of different colors (brown, green, black) on the plaster.
Cracking: Prolonged exposure to highly acidic or highly alkaline water can weaken the structural integrity of the plaster, causing it to crack or delaminate.
Algae Growth: Improper sanitizer levels can result in algae growth, leading to green or black spots on the pool surface, making it slippery and unsanitary.
Fiberglass Pools
Gel Coat Damage: Imbalanced pH, alkalinity, or calcium hardness can cause the gel coat of fiberglass pools to deteriorate, resulting in a dull or chalky appearance.
Staining and Discoloration: Low pH or improper sanitizer levels can cause metal ions (like copper or iron) to stain the surface, leading to unsightly yellow, brown, or green marks.
General Consequences for All Pool Types
Corrosion of Equipment: Unbalanced water, especially with low pH or high chlorine levels, can corrode metal parts in pool equipment like ladders, pumps, and heaters.
Increased Maintenance Costs: Damage from unbalanced water often requires expensive repairs, replacements, or resurfacing, increasing overall maintenance costs.
Poor Swimmer Comfort: Improperly balanced water can cause eye irritation, skin discomfort, and an unpleasant swimming experience.
Damage to Pool Surfaces: Maintaining the appropriate water chemistry balance helps protect pool surfaces and swimmers’ health in all pool types. Regular testing and adjustments are key to preventing these types of damage.Â
Each pool type requires maintenance tasks to keep them in good condition. Be sure to take the time to read your pool manufacturer’sowner’s manual along with any equipment manuals that may come along with your pool project to have a complete understanding of these tasks. Learn as much as you can about pool maintenance and enlist the help of a pool maintenance pro near you to bridge the gap between what you can and can’t do yourself. Then, the only thing left to do is sit back, enjoy your crystal clear water … and take a swim!
As the air gets crisp, the leaves begin to fall, and stores start stocking Christmas decorations alongside Halloween candy, it’s impossible to ignore the signals that winter is just around the corner. For pool owners, this seasonal shift prompts an important question: when is the right time to start winter pool maintenance? The answer depends largely on your local climate, whether you live in a region with harsh winters, mild winters, or something in between. Let’s dive into some essential considerations for winter pool maintenance for fiberglass pools based on the climate where you live, helping you keep your pool in top shape as winter approaches.
Moderate Climates: Year-Round Pool Care Without Closing
In moderate climates, such as Sun Belt or coastal regions, pool owners have the luxury of keeping their pools open year-round. However, this doesn’t mean they can take a hands-off approach to winter maintenance. Even though freezing temperatures aren’t a concern, several important factors remain to consider as the weather cools.
Commit to Regular Maintenance: Just because you aren’t swimming as often during the winter doesn’t mean you can ignore the pool. You must still monitor and maintain your water balance even when the pool isn’t as frequently used. During the cooler months, the pool’s filter might not need as frequent backwashing as it does in the summer, but you will still need to maintain it. A dirty filter can reduce water flow, lead to cloudy water, and put undue stress on the pump.
Annual System Inspection: Developing a yearly maintenance checklist is an excellent idea if you don’t fully close the pool. The inspection helps catch minor issues before they become expensive repairs. Some items to include on your inspection list include checking pumps, filters, safety equipment, and pool covers.
Consider a Professional Service: If you’re using the pool less often, you might overlook minor issues that could develop over time. Pool owners in moderate climates may want to hire a professional maintenance service during the cooler months to ensure the pool remains in optimal condition. Hiring someone to maintain your pool can help prevent neglected problems from snowballing into costly repairs.
Semi-Cold Climates: Balancing the Risk of Delaying Pool Closure
In semi-cold climates like the southern Midwest or coastal regions flirting with freezing temperatures, pool maintenance becomes trickier. Pool owners in these areas often struggle with the decision of when to close their pools for the winter. Some years, temperatures might stay mild enough to keep the pool open longer, but delaying pool closure can be a gamble.
Consult a Professional: Keeping the pool open in semi-cold climates is like driving over the speed limit—you might not get caught, but you’re still taking a risk. A sudden freeze could catch you off guard, leading to cracked pipes, damaged equipment, and expensive repairs. Consult with a local pool professional who understands the specific weather patterns in your region. They can advise on whether it’s safe to delay or if it’s time to start winterizing.
Protect Your Equipment: Even if you decide to keep the pool open later in the season, paying attention to your equipment is essential. Many newer pool systems come with freeze protection features, automatically turning the pump on when temperatures drop near freezing. While this feature can help during short cold snaps, it’s not a permanent solution. If your equipment doesn’t have freeze protection or if you experience prolonged freezing temperatures, the best solution is to winterize your pool completely.
Cold Climates: The Necessity of Earlier Pool Closure
Closing the pool is essential in regions with consistent freeze/thaw cycles, such as the northern U.S. If you wait too long, freezing temperatures can cause severe damage to your pool’s structure and equipment. Winterizing early and thoroughly is the best way to avoid costly repairs and ensure your pool stays in tip-top condition until spring.
Beat the 50-Degree Days: As temperatures drop, water inside your pool and plumbing can freeze, expand, and cause cracks in pipes, filters, and pumps. In cold climates, the general rule is to winterize the pool before temperatures consistently drop into the 50s (Fahrenheit) during the day. Starting the closing process earlier allows plenty of time to prepare without racing against sudden drops in temperature.
A Thorough Closing Process: The key is a thorough closing process when preparing for winter in cold climates. It’s not just about covering the pool—it’s about balancing the water chemistry and ensuring all equipment is properly winterized. Taking the time to close the pool properly can save you from expensive repairs and a stressful opening process in the spring.
Plan Well for a Better Spring: Properly balancing the water before closing ensures it stays clean and clear through the winter, making spring maintenance much more manageable. You’ll spend less time cleaning and repairing and more time swimming.
Protect Your Investment, Enjoy the Holidays
Proper winter maintenance paves the way for a smooth and hassle-free spring opening. Consult your local pool professional to tailor your winter pool maintenance to your specific climate and address potential issues early. This way, you can relax and enjoy the holiday season and know that your pool is well-protected.
This too, shall pass. For those of us who live for the juxtaposition of the warm sun and luxurious cool pool water while living in a state with four seasons, waiting out the winter is a necessary evil. And making sure you are ready to enjoy your pool as soon as possible means closing your pool properly for the winter. If you live in a state with a freeze/thaw cycle, you may be wondering, “What does a pool closing include?” Some questions to consider when learning how to close a pool for winter may include:
How do you know when to close the pool for the winter (i.e. what month do you close a pool?
Why is winter water level maintenance important?Â
How far down do you drain your pool for winter? How low should pool water be in winter? How high should pool water be in winter? And can you winterize the pool without draining?
What to put in the pool before closing? What chemicals do you need to close a pool for the winter? Do you need antifreeze to close the pool for winter? Should you shock the pool before closing?
What are the steps for closing a pool? How do you winterize a pool step by step?Â
Let’s get to answering those questions!
How do you know when to close the pool for the winter?Â
What month you close a pool for the winter depends on where you live and whether you have a pool heater or not. Many homeowners keep their pools open from Memorial Day to Labor Day, but if you have a pool heater, you could swim from April to October. You don’t want to close your pool too soon either because closing too early will increase the risk of algae growth. Fiberglass pools are naturally algae resistant, but vinyl liner and gunite pools are more prone to algae growth. So whether you will be swimming in your pool or not, for the health of the water you will be swimming in next season, make sure the water temperature is consistently below 65 degrees before stopping your filtration system and closing your pool.
Why is winter water level maintenance important?Â
All inground pools have a common enemy. It’s called groundwater. Groundwater can wreak havoc on every type of pool if you allow its level to rise too close to the water level in your pool. In the winter months, while you’re busy watching football and baking Christmas cookies, you need to be sure that your water level underneath your winter cover doesn’t get out of whack with the groundwater around your pool, or you might be in for a world of hurt (and expense) when you pull that cover off in the spring. Here’s what might happen, based on the type of pool you have:
Vinyl Liner Pools: On a vinyl pool, if the water level inside the pool becomes lower than the water on the outside, the result is something we refer to as “floating the liner” which is not a good thing. It means that the liner is wrinkled and damaged beyond repair. A pool maintenance pro will have to drain the pool completely andreplace the liner.
Fiberglass Pools: If the pressure of groundwater exceeds the pressure of the water inside your pool, yourfiberglass poolshell might shift, crack, or float. Proper winterization and balancing inner vs outer water levels are the keys to protecting against these issues. Having additional add-ons to secure your fiberglass pool, like the Geo-Anchoring Pool System, can grant you additional support, as well.Â
Gunite Pools: Groundwater pressure can cause cracks in gunite pools over the winter as well, resulting in the need for resurfacing. Ceramic tile along the waterline can also be adversely affected. The worst possible issue is flooding. If groundwater is not managed properly, a gunite pool can actually float.
How far down do you drain your pool for winter?Â
Lowering your pool water can really cause some problems when Old Man Winter kicks it into high gear and Frosty the Snowman starts dancing across your pool cover. Every pool company has its own opinions and you’ll find conflicting information out there on the world wide web about the proper water level for winterization.Â
When water freezes, it expands. The pressure of that expansion can crack your skimmer. Many pool professionals choose a Gizzmo, designed to absorb the pressure from ice expansion to prevent it from destroying the skimmer. It can be used in both above andinground pools.Â
The Gizzmo has a plug on the top of it that is left open while air is blown from the pump area through the lines, clearing them of water. Most pool maintenance pros will then pour a gallon of antifreeze through the opening and into the piping to ensure the lines won’t freeze. Once the plug is screwed on tightly, water can’t get back into the piping.
We believe your best bet is to maintain your water level to just below the midway point of your skimmer. Doing so means you’re most likely to keep your water level in balance with groundwater throughout the freezing weather. One of the benefits of anautomatic pool safety coverover a standard winter cover is the ease of being able to take a peek periodically at your water level.
What to put in the pool before closingÂ
If you live in a part of the country where winter temperatures are freezing or below freezing, you’ll need non-toxic antifreeze to protect your plumbing. Just like the summer, you should make sure your pool chemistry is balanced before winterizing.
Chemicals for winterizing your pool:
Shock. If your water chemistry is balanced before you close your pool there is no need to shock the pool at closing. During the winter months, your chlorine demand is much lower (if not zero) requiring little to no chlorine in your pool. Generally the residual chlorine in your pool left over from the standard season is enough to combat algae growth through the fall if you do not close the pool until after the average temperatures are below 65 degrees.
Stain and scale treatment. If needed, add stain and scale treatment a day before closing. Adjusting the pool pH to 7.2-7.4 will prevent staining, scaling and algae growth, so you may need a pH increaser or reducer.
Winter algaecide. Winter algaecide is generally put in the pool at the time of closing.
Non-toxic antifreeze. This chemical is not actually put in the pool water. It’s used in the plumbing lines to prevent cracking and bursting.
What are the steps for closing a pool?
Whether you choose to do some (or all) of it yourself, or hire a pool professional to winterize your inground pool, there are certain steps you’ll want to take to ensure a happy opening in the spring.
Step 1: Clean your pool.
Remove all debris, brush the pool’s walls and vacuum. Â
Step 2: Balance water chemistry.
Test the water and adjust with the proper chemicals to reach the following levels:
CHLORINE RESIDUAL – 1.0 TO 3.0 PPM
PH LEVEL – 7.2 TO 7.4
TOTAL ALKALINITY – 80 TO 120 PPM
CALCIUM HARDNESS – Less than 120 PPM (Note: if you own a fiberglass pool, be sure to avoid using Calcium Hypochlorite.)
CYANURIC ACID (CHLORINE STABILIZER) – 30 TO 50 PPM
METALS – 0 PPM
TDS – LESS THAN 1500 PPM (Note: if you have a salt system, maximum should be 1000 PPM above safe salt level)
SALT – 2700 TO 3400 PPM (Note: this is only necessary if using a salt generator)
LANGELIER SATURATION INDEX (-0.3 to +0.3). IDEAL IS 0. (Note: if you have a salt system, your saturation index should be between -0.2 and 0.2 to account for the additional corrosive characteristics of salt)
Step 3: Remove and store equipment/accessories.
Remove solar blankets and ladders from the pool, and store in a clean, dry area for winter. You’ll also want to remove and store skimmer baskets, wall fittings, floating lights, etc.Â
Step 4: Achieve proper water level.
Using the filter pump or a submersible pump, you may need to lower the water level. Check your pool manufacturer’s manual or consult your pool dealer.
Step 5: Drain water from equipment.
Drain water from your pump, filter, heater and chlorinator by removing the drain plugs. All water must be drained or blown out of your equipment so it doesn’t freeze, expand, and crack the equipment. If you have an inground pool, blow out the lines starting at the skimmer and then plug the lines at the pool using expansion plugs. As an additional safety measure, you may also use non-toxic antifreeze in the lines following manufacturer’s instructions.
Step 6: Cover the pool.
A winter safety cover that fits tightly is needed. You may have a mesh safety cover or solid (non-perforated) cover. Mesh will allow water to seep into the pool, and a non-perforated cover will require you to use a cover pump to remove rain water and snow melt.Â
Knowing how to close a pool for winter doesn’t mean you need to do it yourself. It’s good to know what goes into closing a pool for winter so you can be sure that it’s being done correctly. Always follow manufacturer’s instructions as not doing so may result in problems and a voided warranty.
Whether you’re a new pool owner or have owned one for years, proper pool maintenance ensures your inground pool remains a sparkling oasis, extends its lifespan, and minimizes costly repairs. If you’re a fiberglass pool owner, you probably have heard that fiberglass pools are the lower maintenance option among pool types. However, lower maintenance does not mean no maintenance. The following tips can help you avoid the common mistakes people make when caring for their inground pool.
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Whether you’re a new or seasoned pool owner, proper pool maintenance ensures your inground pool remains a sparkling oasis, extends its lifespan, and minimizes costly repairs. Fiberglass pools feature the lightest regular maintenance demands among all pool types, but “low maintenance” does not mean “no maintenance.” Taking a proactive approach and following a few simple tips can help you avoid common—and costly—pool maintenance mistakes.
Tip 1: Balance Your Water with Fiberglass in Mind
Failing to monitor water chemistry appropriately is one of the most frequent and frustrating mistakes pool owners make. Your pool water may look crystal clear, but that doesn’t mean its chemistry is in proper balance. Poor water chemistry balance can silently cause scaling, chalking, and permanent damage to your fiberglass pool’s surface.
To achieve water chemistry balance, fiberglass pool owners must focus on the factors that matter most:
Maintain pH between 7.2 and 7.4.
Keep calcium hardness less than 120 ppm. If calcium hardness reaches more than 120 ppm, use a chelating stain and scale control product.
Chlorine should stay between 1 and 3 ppm.
Use a stain and scale control product consistently.
Rather than relying solely on the Langelier Saturation Index (LSI), originally intended for concrete pools, proper fiberglass pool care depends on tight control of a few core values. By carefully managing calcium levels and avoiding high pH, especially in salt pools, you’ll help preserve the beauty of your gelcoat finish for the long term.
Use a high-quality test kit for the best results, or have your water tested professionally. Just be sure to take in water samples for testing promptly—exposure to heat, or a delay with the water sitting in a car for a few hours, can alter results.
For the most information and recommendations, refer to Thursday Pools’ Fiberglass Pool Care Guide and Owner’s Manual, which outline more details, target ranges, and chemicals to avoid.
Tip 2: Backwash Regularly
Many pool owners begin each swim season backwashing filters once per week, but frequency often fades as the summer progresses. Your filter plays an essential role in the continued enjoyment of your pool. Proper backwashing can reduce pool maintenance costs in the long run and encourage a healthy pool experience.
Efficiency: A clean filter is more effective at trapping debris. A clogged filter cannot perform efficiently, putting more strain on your pool pump and reducing the equipment’s service lifespan.
Water Quality: Frequent backwashing helps maintain clear and sanitary pool water. A dirty filter can harbor bacteria and allow more contaminants to circulate through the pool.
Damage Prevention: Regular backwashing helps prevent issues from dirty filters or excessive pressure that can cause long-term damage to the pool’s filtration system.
A clean, efficient filtration system improves overall water quality and helps keep your pool water looking and feeling great.
Tip 3: Keep Up Your Water Level
Maintaining the water level at the midpoint of the skimmer opening allows your pool’s systems to operate correctly. The skimmer pulls debris from the pool’s surface before it sinks to the bottom of the pool, where it becomes harder to remove. If the water level is too high, the skimmer door may not work correctly, reducing its efficiency at collecting surface debris. If the water is too low, the skimmer may suck in air, which can lead to airlocks or damage the pool pump by causing it to run dry.
A proper water level also promotes balanced circulation. The pool pump must pull water through the skimmer for filtration and chemical treatment. Maintaining the correct water level helps ensure water circulates, distributes chemicals evenly, and keeps the temperature consistent.
With fiberglass pools, maintaining a proper water level is also critical to prevent structural stress. Extremely low water levels can lead to wall bulging or floating due to groundwater pressure, which is why most manufacturers’ warranties are void if owners allow the water level to drop below the skimmer.
Protect your pool’s structure by consistently checking and maintaining your water level.
Tip 4: Be Selective About the Pool Chemicals You Use
Not all pool chemicals and tools are safe for fiberglass pools. Mistakenly using the wrong products can lead to staining, discoloration, and surface damage.
Good Chemicals for Fiberglass Pools
pH Balancers: Keeping the pH level between 7.2 and 7.4 is crucial. To maintain this balance, use pH increasers (soda ash) or decreasers (muriatic acid or sodium bisulfate).
Alkalinity Increasers: Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) can help keep total alkalinity between 80 and 120 ppm to stabilize pH levels.
Non-Copper Algaecides: Look for polyquat algaecides, which are a safe alternative for fiberglass pools.
Most Chlorine Types: Keep total chlorine at 1 to 3 ppm. When your water’s chemistry is in LSI balance, you will need less chlorine. High chlorine levels (more than 5 ppm) can damage the gelcoat finish.
Harmful Chemicals for Fiberglass Pools
Calcium Hypochlorite: Completely avoid calcium hypochlorite, which is a form of chlorine that contains calcium, as well as calcium increasers and other products that contain calcium.
High-Strength Chlorine: Avoid “shocking” the pool with high doses of chlorine, which can lead to discoloration and damage to the fiberglass surface.
Copper-Based Algaecides: Avoid algaecides that contain copper, as they can damage fiberglass surfaces with blue-green stains that are difficult to remove.
Good Tools for Fiberglass Pools
Soft-Bristle Brushes: Use soft nylon brushes to clean the pool’s sides and bottom. Fiberglass surfaces are relatively delicate, and using soft brushes will prevent scratches.
Manual or Automatic Cleaners: Ensure your automatic pool cleaner is suitable for fiberglass pools.
Tools to Avoid with Fiberglass Pools
Wire Brushes: Never use wire brushes or abrasive tools, which can scratch and damage the gelcoat finish.
Heavy-Duty Vacuums: Some heavy-duty vacuums designed for concrete pools can be too abrasive for fiberglass surfaces.
Above all, the most significant pool maintenance mistake is not doing the necessary pool maintenance. Consistency is critical, so be sure to develop a regular and thorough schedule to keep your pool in great shape.
Looking for more information on fiberglass pool maintenance and mistakes to avoid? Explore Thursday Pools’ Ultimate Fiberglass Pool Maintenance Guide for a thorough look at everything you need to know.
Frequently Asked Questions About Avoiding Fiberglass Pool Maintenance Mistakes
How often should I test my fiberglass pool water?
Test at least once a week during swim season, and more often if your pool sees heavy use or weather shifts. In the off-season, monthly checks help prevent chemistry surprises. Consistent testing and chemical adjustments helps prevent “invisible” damage like chalki
What happens if I let my fiberglass pool water level get too low?
Low water levels can cause air to enter the skimmer, damage the pump, and even stress the pool structure. Always keep the water halfway up the skimmer opening to protect your pool.
Can I use the same chemicals in a fiberglass pool that I would use in a concrete pool?
Not always. Avoid calcium-based chlorine (like cal-hypo), calcium increasers, and copper-based algaecides. These can cause staining or surface damage in fiberglass pools. Instead, use liquid chlorine, non-copper algaecides, and fiberglass-safe balancers.
How often should I backwash my pool filter?
Backwash when your filter’s pressure gauge reads 8–10 psi higher than its clean baseline, which is often about once per week during heavy use. Regular backwashing keeps your system efficient, your water clear, and your pump from unnecessary strain.
What cleaning tools are safe for fiberglass pools?
Use soft nylon brushes, microfiber cloths, and pool cleaners designed for fiberglass. Avoid wire brushes, stiff bristles, or heavy-duty vacuums that can scratch or damage the gelcoat surface.