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When Do I Start Winter Pool Maintenance?

Posted on October 23, 2018July 16, 2026 by riley

As the air gets crisp, the leaves begin to fall, and stores start stocking Christmas decorations alongside Halloween candy, it’s impossible to ignore the signals that winter is just around the corner. For pool owners, this seasonal shift prompts an important question: when is the right time to start winter pool maintenance? The answer depends largely on your local climate, whether you live in a region with harsh winters, mild winters, or something in between. Let’s dive into some essential considerations for winter pool maintenance for fiberglass pools based on the climate where you live, helping you keep your pool in top shape as winter approaches.

Moderate Climates: Year-Round Pool Care Without Closing

In moderate climates, such as Sun Belt or coastal regions, pool owners have the luxury of keeping their pools open year-round. However, this doesn’t mean they can take a hands-off approach to winter maintenance. Even though freezing temperatures aren’t a concern, several important factors remain to consider as the weather cools.

Commit to Regular Maintenance: Just because you aren’t swimming as often during the winter doesn’t mean you can ignore the pool. You must still monitor and maintain your water balance even when the pool isn’t as frequently used. During the cooler months, the pool’s filter might not need as frequent backwashing as it does in the summer, but you will still need to maintain it. A dirty filter can reduce water flow, lead to cloudy water, and put undue stress on the pump.

Annual System Inspection: Developing a yearly maintenance checklist is an excellent idea if you don’t fully close the pool. The inspection helps catch minor issues before they become expensive repairs. Some items to include on your inspection list include checking pumps, filters, safety equipment, and pool covers.

Consider a Professional Service: If you’re using the pool less often, you might overlook minor issues that could develop over time. Pool owners in moderate climates may want to hire a professional maintenance service during the cooler months to ensure the pool remains in optimal condition. Hiring someone to maintain your pool can help prevent neglected problems from snowballing into costly repairs.

Semi-Cold Climates: Balancing the Risk of Delaying Pool Closure

In semi-cold climates like the southern Midwest or coastal regions flirting with freezing temperatures, pool maintenance becomes trickier. Pool owners in these areas often struggle with the decision of when to close their pools for the winter. Some years, temperatures might stay mild enough to keep the pool open longer, but delaying pool closure can be a gamble.

Consult a Professional: Keeping the pool open in semi-cold climates is like driving over the speed limit—you might not get caught, but you’re still taking a risk. A sudden freeze could catch you off guard, leading to cracked pipes, damaged equipment, and expensive repairs. Consult with a local pool professional who understands the specific weather patterns in your region. They can advise on whether it’s safe to delay or if it’s time to start winterizing.

Protect Your Equipment: Even if you decide to keep the pool open later in the season, paying attention to your equipment is essential. Many newer pool systems come with freeze protection features, automatically turning the pump on when temperatures drop near freezing. While this feature can help during short cold snaps, it’s not a permanent solution. If your equipment doesn’t have freeze protection or if you experience prolonged freezing temperatures, the best solution is to winterize your pool completely.

Cold Climates: The Necessity of Earlier Pool Closure

Closing the pool is essential in regions with consistent freeze/thaw cycles, such as the northern U.S. If you wait too long, freezing temperatures can cause severe damage to your pool’s structure and equipment. Winterizing early and thoroughly is the best way to avoid costly repairs and ensure your pool stays in tip-top condition until spring.

Beat the 50-Degree Days: As temperatures drop, water inside your pool and plumbing can freeze, expand, and cause cracks in pipes, filters, and pumps. In cold climates, the general rule is to winterize the pool before temperatures consistently drop into the 50s (Fahrenheit) during the day. Starting the closing process earlier allows plenty of time to prepare without racing against sudden drops in temperature.

A Thorough Closing Process: The key is a thorough closing process when preparing for winter in cold climates. It’s not just about covering the pool—it’s about balancing the water chemistry and ensuring all equipment is properly winterized. Taking the time to close the pool properly can save you from expensive repairs and a stressful opening process in the spring.

Plan Well for a Better Spring: Properly balancing the water before closing ensures it stays clean and clear through the winter, making spring maintenance much more manageable. You’ll spend less time cleaning and repairing and more time swimming.

Protect Your Investment, Enjoy the Holidays

Proper winter maintenance paves the way for a smooth and hassle-free spring opening. Consult your local pool professional to tailor your winter pool maintenance to your specific climate and address potential issues early. This way, you can relax and enjoy the holiday season and know that your pool is well-protected.

How to Close a Pool For Winter

Posted on October 19, 2018July 16, 2026 by riley

HOW TO CLOSE A POOL FOR WINTER

This too, shall pass. For those of us who live for the juxtaposition of the warm sun and luxurious cool pool water while living in a state with four seasons, waiting out the winter is a necessary evil. And making sure you are ready to enjoy your pool as soon as possible means closing your pool properly for the winter. If you live in a state with a freeze/thaw cycle, you may be wondering, “What does a pool closing include?” Some questions to consider when learning how to close a pool for winter may include:

How do you know when to close the pool for the winter (i.e. what month do you close a pool?
Why is winter water level maintenance important?
How far down do you drain your pool for winter? How low should pool water be in winter? How high should pool water be in winter? And can you winterize the pool without draining?
What to put in the pool before closing? What chemicals do you need to close a pool for the winter? Do you need antifreeze to close the pool for winter? Should you shock the pool before closing?
What are the steps for closing a pool? How do you winterize a pool step by step?

Let’s get to answering those questions!

How do you know when to close the pool for the winter?

What month you close a pool for the winter depends on where you live and whether you have a pool heater or not. Many homeowners keep their pools open from Memorial Day to Labor Day, but if you have a pool heater, you could swim from April to October. You don’t want to close your pool too soon either because closing too early will increase the risk of algae growth. Fiberglass pools are naturally algae resistant, but vinyl liner and gunite pools are more prone to algae growth. So whether you will be swimming in your pool or not, for the health of the water you will be swimming in next season, make sure the water temperature is consistently below 65 degrees before stopping your filtration system and closing your pool.

Why is winter water level maintenance important?

All inground pools have a common enemy. It’s called groundwater. Groundwater can wreak havoc on every type of pool if you allow its level to rise too close to the water level in your pool. In the winter months, while you’re busy watching football and baking Christmas cookies, you need to be sure that your water level underneath your winter cover doesn’t get out of whack with the groundwater around your pool, or you might be in for a world of hurt (and expense) when you pull that cover off in the spring. Here’s what might happen, based on the type of pool you have:

Vinyl Liner Pools: On a vinyl pool, if the water level inside the pool becomes lower than the water on the outside, the result is something we refer to as “floating the liner” which is not a good thing. It means that the liner is wrinkled and damaged beyond repair. A pool maintenance pro will have to drain the pool completely and replace the liner.

Fiberglass Pools: If the pressure of groundwater exceeds the pressure of the water inside your pool, your fiberglass pool shell might shift, crack, or float. Proper winterization and balancing inner vs outer water levels are the keys to protecting against these issues. Having additional add-ons to secure your fiberglass pool, like the Geo-Anchoring Pool System, can grant you additional support, as well.

Gunite Pools: Groundwater pressure can cause cracks in gunite pools over the winter as well, resulting in the need for resurfacing. Ceramic tile along the waterline can also be adversely affected. The worst possible issue is flooding. If groundwater is not managed properly, a gunite pool can actually float.

How far down do you drain your pool for winter?

Lowering your pool water can really cause some problems when Old Man Winter kicks it into high gear and Frosty the Snowman starts dancing across your pool cover. Every pool company has its own opinions and you’ll find conflicting information out there on the world wide web about the proper water level for winterization.

When water freezes, it expands. The pressure of that expansion can crack your skimmer. Many pool professionals choose a Gizzmo, designed to absorb the pressure from ice expansion to prevent it from destroying the skimmer. It can be used in both above and inground pools.

The Gizzmo has a plug on the top of it that is left open while air is blown from the pump area through the lines, clearing them of water. Most pool maintenance pros will then pour a gallon of antifreeze through the opening and into the piping to ensure the lines won’t freeze. Once the plug is screwed on tightly, water can’t get back into the piping.

We believe your best bet is to maintain your water level to just below the midway point of your skimmer. Doing so means you’re most likely to keep your water level in balance with groundwater throughout the freezing weather. One of the benefits of an automatic pool safety cover over a standard winter cover is the ease of being able to take a peek periodically at your water level.

What to put in the pool before closing

If you live in a part of the country where winter temperatures are freezing or below freezing, you’ll need non-toxic antifreeze to protect your plumbing. Just like the summer, you should make sure your pool chemistry is balanced before winterizing.

Chemicals for winterizing your pool:

- Shock. If your water chemistry is balanced before you close your pool there is no need to shock the pool at closing. During the winter months, your chlorine demand is much lower (if not zero) requiring little to no chlorine in your pool. Generally the residual chlorine in your pool left over from the standard season is enough to combat algae growth through the fall if you do not close the pool until after the average temperatures are below 65 degrees.
- Stain and scale treatment. If needed, add stain and scale treatment a day before closing. Adjusting the pool pH to 7.2-7.4 will prevent staining, scaling and algae growth, so you may need a pH increaser or reducer.
- Winter algaecide. Winter algaecide is generally put in the pool at the time of closing.

Non-toxic antifreeze. This chemical is not actually put in the pool water. It’s used in the plumbing lines to prevent cracking and bursting.

What are the steps for closing a pool?

Whether you choose to do some (or all) of it yourself, or hire a pool professional to winterize your inground pool, there are certain steps you’ll want to take to ensure a happy opening in the spring.

Step 1: Clean your pool.

Remove all debris, brush the pool’s walls and vacuum.

Step 2: Balance water chemistry.

Test the water and adjust with the proper chemicals to reach the following levels:

CHLORINE RESIDUAL – 1.0 TO 3.0 PPM
PH LEVEL – 7.2 TO 7.4
TOTAL ALKALINITY – 80 TO 120 PPM
CALCIUM HARDNESS – Less than 120 PPM (Note: if you own a fiberglass pool, be sure to avoid using Calcium Hypochlorite.)
CYANURIC ACID (CHLORINE STABILIZER) – 30 TO 50 PPM
METALS – 0 PPM
TDS – LESS THAN 1500 PPM (Note: if you have a salt system, maximum should be 1000 PPM above safe salt level)
SALT – 2700 TO 3400 PPM (Note: this is only necessary if using a salt generator)
LANGELIER SATURATION INDEX (-0.3 to +0.3). IDEAL IS 0. (Note: if you have a salt system, your saturation index should be between -0.2 and 0.2 to account for the additional corrosive characteristics of salt)

Step 3: Remove and store equipment/accessories.

Remove solar blankets and ladders from the pool, and store in a clean, dry area for winter. You’ll also want to remove and store skimmer baskets, wall fittings, floating lights, etc.

Step 4: Achieve proper water level.

Using the filter pump or a submersible pump, you may need to lower the water level. Check your pool manufacturer’s manual or consult your pool dealer.

Step 5: Drain water from equipment.

Drain water from your pump, filter, heater and chlorinator by removing the drain plugs. All water must be drained or blown out of your equipment so it doesn’t freeze, expand, and crack the equipment. If you have an inground pool, blow out the lines starting at the skimmer and then plug the lines at the pool using expansion plugs. As an additional safety measure, you may also use non-toxic antifreeze in the lines following manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 6: Cover the pool.

A winter safety cover that fits tightly is needed. You may have a mesh safety cover or solid (non-perforated) cover. Mesh will allow water to seep into the pool, and a non-perforated cover will require you to use a cover pump to remove rain water and snow melt.

Knowing how to close a pool for winter doesn’t mean you need to do it yourself. It’s good to know what goes into closing a pool for winter so you can be sure that it’s being done correctly. Always follow manufacturer’s instructions as not doing so may result in problems and a voided warranty.

How to Avoid Common Pool Maintenance Mistakes

Posted on October 9, 2018July 16, 2026 by riley

Whether you’re a new pool owner or have owned one for years, proper pool maintenance ensures your inground pool remains a sparkling oasis, extends its lifespan, and minimizes costly repairs. If you’re a fiberglass pool owner, you probably have heard that fiberglass pools are the lower maintenance option among pool types. However, lower maintenance does not mean no maintenance. The following tips can help you avoid the common mistakes people make when caring for their inground pool.

Video 1

Whether you’re a new or seasoned pool owner, proper pool maintenance ensures your inground pool remains a sparkling oasis, extends its lifespan, and minimizes costly repairs. Fiberglass pools feature the lightest regular maintenance demands among all pool types, but “low maintenance” does not mean “no maintenance.” Taking a proactive approach and following a few simple tips can help you avoid common—and costly—pool maintenance mistakes.

Tip 1: Balance Your Water with Fiberglass in Mind

Failing to monitor water chemistry appropriately is one of the most frequent and frustrating mistakes pool owners make. Your pool water may look crystal clear, but that doesn’t mean its chemistry is in proper balance. Poor water chemistry balance can silently cause scaling, chalking, and permanent damage to your fiberglass pool’s surface.

To achieve water chemistry balance, fiberglass pool owners must focus on the factors that matter most:

Maintain pH between 7.2 and 7.4.
Keep calcium hardness less than 120 ppm. If calcium hardness reaches more than 120 ppm, use a chelating stain and scale control product.
Chlorine should stay between 1 and 3 ppm.
Use a stain and scale control product consistently.

Rather than relying solely on the Langelier Saturation Index (LSI), originally intended for concrete pools, proper fiberglass pool care depends on tight control of a few core values. By carefully managing calcium levels and avoiding high pH, especially in salt pools, you’ll help preserve the beauty of your gelcoat finish for the long term.

Use a high-quality test kit for the best results, or have your water tested professionally. Just be sure to take in water samples for testing promptly—exposure to heat, or a delay with the water sitting in a car for a few hours, can alter results.

For the most information and recommendations, refer to Thursday Pools’ Fiberglass Pool Care Guide and Owner’s Manual, which outline more details, target ranges, and chemicals to avoid.

Tip 2: Backwash Regularly

Many pool owners begin each swim season backwashing filters once per week, but frequency often fades as the summer progresses. Your filter plays an essential role in the continued enjoyment of your pool. Proper backwashing can reduce pool maintenance costs in the long run and encourage a healthy pool experience.

Efficiency: A clean filter is more effective at trapping debris. A clogged filter cannot perform efficiently, putting more strain on your pool pump and reducing the equipment’s service lifespan.
Water Quality: Frequent backwashing helps maintain clear and sanitary pool water. A dirty filter can harbor bacteria and allow more contaminants to circulate through the pool.
Damage Prevention: Regular backwashing helps prevent issues from dirty filters or excessive pressure that can cause long-term damage to the pool’s filtration system.

A clean, efficient filtration system improves overall water quality and helps keep your pool water looking and feeling great.

Tip 3: Keep Up Your Water Level

Maintaining the water level at the midpoint of the skimmer opening allows your pool’s systems to operate correctly. The skimmer pulls debris from the pool’s surface before it sinks to the bottom of the pool, where it becomes harder to remove. If the water level is too high, the skimmer door may not work correctly, reducing its efficiency at collecting surface debris. If the water is too low, the skimmer may suck in air, which can lead to airlocks or damage the pool pump by causing it to run dry.

A proper water level also promotes balanced circulation. The pool pump must pull water through the skimmer for filtration and chemical treatment. Maintaining the correct water level helps ensure water circulates, distributes chemicals evenly, and keeps the temperature consistent.

With fiberglass pools, maintaining a proper water level is also critical to prevent structural stress. Extremely low water levels can lead to wall bulging or floating due to groundwater pressure, which is why most manufacturers’ warranties are void if owners allow the water level to drop below the skimmer.

Protect your pool’s structure by consistently checking and maintaining your water level.

Tip 4: Be Selective About the Pool Chemicals You Use

Not all pool chemicals and tools are safe for fiberglass pools. Mistakenly using the wrong products can lead to staining, discoloration, and surface damage.

Good Chemicals for Fiberglass Pools

pH Balancers: Keeping the pH level between 7.2 and 7.4 is crucial. To maintain this balance, use pH increasers (soda ash) or decreasers (muriatic acid or sodium bisulfate).
Alkalinity Increasers: Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) can help keep total alkalinity between 80 and 120 ppm to stabilize pH levels.
Non-Copper Algaecides: Look for polyquat algaecides, which are a safe alternative for fiberglass pools.
Most Chlorine Types: Keep total chlorine at 1 to 3 ppm. When your water’s chemistry is in LSI balance, you will need less chlorine. High chlorine levels (more than 5 ppm) can damage the gelcoat finish.

Harmful Chemicals for Fiberglass Pools

Calcium Hypochlorite: Completely avoid calcium hypochlorite, which is a form of chlorine that contains calcium, as well as calcium increasers and other products that contain calcium.
High-Strength Chlorine: Avoid “shocking” the pool with high doses of chlorine, which can lead to discoloration and damage to the fiberglass surface.
Copper-Based Algaecides: Avoid algaecides that contain copper, as they can damage fiberglass surfaces with blue-green stains that are difficult to remove.

Good Tools for Fiberglass Pools

Soft-Bristle Brushes: Use soft nylon brushes to clean the pool’s sides and bottom. Fiberglass surfaces are relatively delicate, and using soft brushes will prevent scratches.
Manual or Automatic Cleaners: Ensure your automatic pool cleaner is suitable for fiberglass pools.

Tools to Avoid with Fiberglass Pools

Wire Brushes: Never use wire brushes or abrasive tools, which can scratch and damage the gelcoat finish.
Heavy-Duty Vacuums: Some heavy-duty vacuums designed for concrete pools can be too abrasive for fiberglass surfaces.

Above all, the most significant pool maintenance mistake is not doing the necessary pool maintenance. Consistency is critical, so be sure to develop a regular and thorough schedule to keep your pool in great shape.

Looking for more information on fiberglass pool maintenance and mistakes to avoid? Explore Thursday Pools’ Ultimate Fiberglass Pool Maintenance Guide for a thorough look at everything you need to know.

And if you’re ready for personalized advice, connect with a local independent Thursday Pools dealer near you.

Frequently Asked Questions About Avoiding Fiberglass Pool Maintenance Mistakes

How often should I test my fiberglass pool water?

Test at least once a week during swim season, and more often if your pool sees heavy use or weather shifts. In the off-season, monthly checks help prevent chemistry surprises. Consistent testing and chemical adjustments helps prevent “invisible” damage like chalki

What happens if I let my fiberglass pool water level get too low?

Low water levels can cause air to enter the skimmer, damage the pump, and even stress the pool structure. Always keep the water halfway up the skimmer opening to protect your pool.

Can I use the same chemicals in a fiberglass pool that I would use in a concrete pool?

Not always. Avoid calcium-based chlorine (like cal-hypo), calcium increasers, and copper-based algaecides. These can cause staining or surface damage in fiberglass pools. Instead, use liquid chlorine, non-copper algaecides, and fiberglass-safe balancers.

How often should I backwash my pool filter?

Backwash when your filter’s pressure gauge reads 8–10 psi higher than its clean baseline, which is often about once per week during heavy use. Regular backwashing keeps your system efficient, your water clear, and your pump from unnecessary strain.

What cleaning tools are safe for fiberglass pools?

Use soft nylon brushes, microfiber cloths, and pool cleaners designed for fiberglass. Avoid wire brushes, stiff bristles, or heavy-duty vacuums that can scratch or damage the gelcoat surface.

How To Choose the Best Pool Maintenance Professional

Posted on October 4, 2018July 16, 2026 by riley

The greatest joys of owning a swimming pool include the hours of relaxation and swimming in crystal clear water. Proper water chemistry, regular cleaning and systems maintenance for your inground fiberglass pool is essential to keep your pool systems running smoothly and ensure a lifetime of worry-free pool enjoyment. It’s important to find a good pool maintenance professional near you who you can trust to assist you in keeping your pool in tip-top shape so you can sit back and enjoy your investment. They’ll also be your expert guide when it’s time to close your pool for the season. To ensure you’ve got the best person for the job, here’s a list of things to do as you’re searching for and evaluating pool maintenance pros in your area.

Ask for recommendations. Ask your local pool installer and any friends or neighbors who have a swimming pool who they use for their swimming pool maintenance and what their experience has been. If your pool installer also happens to offer maintenance and annual opening and closing service, that’s a great place to start. Since they’re the ones most familiar with your pool, they’re the best qualified to service it.
Do your research. Whether you’re hiring a general contractor, an attorney or a pool maintenance pro, it’s important to check references and reviews. Check out their Facebook pages as well as their reviews on Google and Yelp. Look for a quantity of ratings and an average score of at least 4 out of 5.
Check out their website. Ask questions about their pricing and make sure you understand everything that’s included in their service packages. Does their opening and closing service include inspections of your pool’s systems? Do they have a service contract that might save you money over time?
Weigh their experience. How long has their company been in business? Your inground swimming pool was a big investment–you want to entrust its care to someone who’s seen all the potential issues that might arise in terms of water balance, system troubleshooting and equipment repair and replacement. Most pool maintenance pros make more than 60 pool visits per week, so they’ve seen it all.
Don’t take chances. Proper maintenance of your pool’s water chemistry and systems is essential to keep your pool in optimal condition for years to come. Don’t take a chance on a brand new company, or entrust your pool’s maintenance to someone who does it part-time or as an add-on service with other outdoor services unless you have gotten glowing references for them. If their pricing sounds too good to be true, it probably is.

Proper care of your pool, including weekly skimming, vacuuming, chemical adjustment and filter cleaning is essential to extend the life of your pool and will help you save operating costs over time. Weekly service from a pool maintenance pro is nice to have, but it isn’t enough to ensure correct water chemistry– that needs to be monitored more than just once a week. Every pool owner should know how to check their pool’s water chemistry and do it a couple of times during the week to make sure their pool maintenance pro is on track. Pool service companies sometimes over-chlorinate pools (to above 3 ppm) to be on the safe side, but over-chlorination is just as bad as under-chlorination, so pool owners should take the lead on monitoring water balance to ensure their water is healthy and safe for their families.

Your attention to your pool’s care, along with the services of an inground fiberglass pool maintenance pro will give you the peace of mind that you’ll be able to enjoy your pool for years to come. If you don’t currently have an inground fiberglass pool but are thinking of getting one, it might be time to stop dreaming and start swimming.

How Do I Start Preparing to Close My Inground Fiberglass Pool?

Posted on September 19, 2018July 16, 2026 by riley

When temperatures consistently fall below 65 degrees, it’s time to host the final pool parties of the season and start preparing to close your fiberglass pool. Preparing adequately for closing ensures a smooth transition into winter and a more effortless spring opening. To put your best foot forward, observe the following pool maintenance tasks to check off your list before winter.

Schedule Your Closing Date

Timing is crucial when it comes to pool closing. Contact your pool service company early to schedule a closing date. Taking a proactive approach to saving the date will help ensure you secure a spot before the busy closing season begins. Consider scheduling based on your climate and coordinate the date with other seasonal tasks to maximize efficiency. In colder climates, close the pool consistently before temperatures drop below freezing, typically between late September and mid-October. You may push closing to late October or early November in milder climates. If you live in an area with lots of falling leaves, you might want to close the pool earlier or use a cover to prevent debris buildup.

Properly balanced water will reduce the likelihood of algae growth and ensure cleaner water when you reopen the pool next year. Fiberglass pools are more algae-resistant than other types, thanks to their non-porous, smooth surface, which makes it harder for algae to attach and grow. However, if conditions are favorable, algae can still develop over winter, even in fiberglass pools. A stain and scale preventative product should also be added to protect the fiberglass surface during the off-season. When preparing for winterization:

Adjust the pH to a level between 7.2 and 7.4.
Adjust the alkalinity to 80 to 120 ppm.
Adjust the calcium hardness to below 120 ppm.
Add an algaecide according to product instructions.
Add stain and scale remover per product instructions.

Pool supply stores offer winterization kits that often include everything you need, including algaecide and stain and scale preventatives. However, many pool owners enlist the help of a professional service to test their chemistry, adjust the water’s chemical levels, and complete other winter pool maintenance tasks.

Gather Your Equipment

Take the time to inspect all necessary winterization equipment, including winter plugs, skimmers, and maintenance tools. For easy access, items should be stored in one location, such as a garage or shed, to minimize time spent searching for tools. It’s also a great time to inspect all the equipment you’ll use upon opening your pool in the spring. If anything needs repair or replacing, handle it before closing so it won’t hinder your ability to enjoy your pool when the swim season comes around again.

Clean the Pool Thoroughly

Before closing your pool, it’s important to clean it thoroughly. Vacuum the pool to remove dirt and debris, scrub the water line, and backwash the filter (or remove and clean the cartridge filter if you have one). A clean pool is vital for closing as it will help you and the professionals enjoy a smoother closing process. It will also ensure the water is cleaner when you open next season.

Invest in a Quality Pool Cover

A reliable winter pool cover will help maintain the integrity of your pool during the off-season. Some pool cover options include:

Solid Vinyl Covers with a Pump System: These covers are popular for winterizing because they are highly effective at blocking sunlight and preventing algae growth. They keep out debris and water. Look for covers with a built-in pump system to remove accumulated water on top.
Mesh Safety Covers: Mesh safety covers are durable and allow rainwater and melted snow to drain through, which can be convenient. However, they let some sunlight through, so they’re not ideal in areas prone to algae. If you choose a mesh cover, opt for one with tightly woven mesh to limit light exposure as much as possible.
Hybrid Covers: These combine the benefits of solid and mesh covers, providing more durability and sunlight blocking while allowing water to drain. They can be an excellent compromise for easy maintenance while reducing algae risk.
Winter Covers with Air Pillows (for Freezing Climates): Air pillows placed under a solid or hybrid cover help prevent ice from damaging the pool walls by relieving pressure from expanding ice. This combination is especially beneficial if you live in a colder climate with freezing winters.
Automatic Pool Covers: Automatic pool covers are durable, secure, and easy to use, providing a tight seal that keeps out sunlight and debris. They provide convenient year-round protection, are more expensive, and require a power source. However, they make checking your water levels and chemistry easier during the winter months and provide nearly instant safety in any season.

Store Pool Accessories Properly

Gather and clean all pool toys, floats, and accessories as you prepare to close. Deflate rafts and thoroughly wash them before storing them in a dry location, such as a garage or pool house. Additionally, according to manufacturer or pool professional advice, protect your diving board, slide, handrails, and ladders. For unremovable items, consider applying a protective wax for winter storage.

Safely Store Chemicals

Store any unused pool chemicals securely and safely to prevent accidents. It’s important to ensure that all chemical containers are tightly sealed to avoid leaks and spills. Store these containers in a well-ventilated area, away from heat sources such as furnaces or direct sunlight, as excessive heat can compromise the integrity of the chemicals. Additionally, store different types of chemicals separately. For instance, keep chlorine and shock treatments away from acids to prevent dangerous reactions. Consider organizing your chemicals by categorizing them, labeling each container clearly, and maintaining an inventory to track what you have. This organized approach enhances safety and makes it easier to find the chemicals.

Cherish the Days

As you prepare to tuck your pool away for winter, take a moment to look back on the memories you made this season. From lazy afternoons and lively pool parties to quiet swims at sunset, every splash holds a story worth sharing. Why not revisit the photos and videos you’ve captured, reliving those sun-soaked days. Let the anticipation of next season build, knowing that your winterizing preparations set the stage for more unforgettable poolside moments when warmer days return.

Ask the General: How to Backwash a Sand Filter in My Fiberglass Pool?

Posted on July 25, 2018May 21, 2024 by Karen

Dear General;

I love my fiberglass pool, but here’s my problem. I don’t understand how to backwash a sand filter. I keep my pool clean and add all the chemicals I’m supposed to, when I’m supposed to. What is backwashing, and WHY do I have to do it to my sand filter?

Signed;

Bad Backwasher in Bainbridge

Dear Bad Backwasher:

Funny you should mention bad back(washing), as I’m writing this with my feet propped up and an ice pack on my back. I’d like to tell you that I pulled something doing a triple Lindy off the high board into the pool, but the truth is, I hurt my back bending over to tie my shoe. The General’s not as young and spry as he used to be. My point is, much like tying a shoe, the simplest things can cause a lot of pain. Which brings us to your learning how to backwash a sand filter.

If you want to talk about pain (which clearly I do because I’m in it), let’s talk about the pain of paying for extra chemicals to clear up a pool that got cloudy due to poor circulation. Why might you have a clogged filter? Failure to backwash your sand filter. You can religiously add chlorine to the chlorinator, check its settings, sweep down the walls of the pool, empty skimmer baskets, vacuum dirt and debris from main drains, do water tests, maintain the correct water level and clean the steps going into the pool, but if you forget about the cleaning the filter, your pool water is going to get cloudy. Nobody wants that.

Pool filters

There are three available types of pool filters: sand, diatomaceous earth (DE) and cartridge. Sand filters are the oldest form of swimming pool filtration. They are particularly good at catching microscopic particles like algae and phosphates and need to be backwashed about once a week. Sand filters require very little maintenance, but the sand must be replaced about once every 2-4 years.

What is backwashing?

Backwashing simply means running water backwards through the filter to lift the dirt off the top layer of sand. Your pool pump moves the water into the top of the filter and then evenly distributes it across the surface area of the sand bed. Then, it pushes the water to the bottom of the filter. By the end of the process, the water has washed the debris out of your filter, readying it to effectively filter your pool water again.

How to backwash your sand filter

Things to watch out for when you’re backwashing

Sand in your pool. If you notice sand in your pool during or after backwashing, you might have cracked of laterals or piping inside the filter or you might also have too much sand in the filter. The space from the top of the filter to the beginning of the sand line is called “free board.” This space is essential to allow you to backwash without having sand come out of the filter.
Too much of a good thing. While backwashing is essential, it is possible to do too much of a good thing. Turn the hose off as soon as your water runs clear. Prolonged backwashing of your sand filter can cause “channeling.” This is a situation in which channels develop down the sides inside the filter. When this happens, water will be able to bypass the sand altogether and this will essentially defeat the whole purpose of your sand filter.

As with all aspects of your pool’s operation and maintenance, I recommend reading the instructions on how to backwash a sand filter that are typically found on the filter, as each model varies slightly. Your filter and your pump are the backbones of your pool. It’s important to pay equal attention to both of them. A failure of either will cause you pain (and, of course, money.)

Speaking of pain, it’s time for me to grab a float, walk SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY into my pool, relax, and rehabilitate my own back.

Until next time–

The General

Who is The General?

The man, the myth, the legend….we just call him The General. His organized, systematic approach to pool installations over the years had his crew members calling him “The General” and it stuck. The General has over 30 years’ experience in the pool and spa industry, working for one of Pool and Spa News’ “Top 50 Pool Builders.”

Over that time, he designed, sold, project-managed and installed over a thousand inground swimming pools. As a pool owner himself, he’s the perfect authority to give you the inside scoop, with amazing tips and tricks to make pool ownership a breeze!

Properly Backfilling and Installing Your Fiberglass Pool’s Tanning Ledge

Posted on July 9, 2018July 16, 2026 by krista

Inground fiberglass swimming pools featuring built-in tanning ledges are, in a word, heaven. They allow swimmers to lounge in just enough water to keep cool while still soaking up the sun’s rays. Whether you’re in tanning ledge chairs or sitting on the ledge itself, they truly offer the best of both worlds. Built-in tanning ledges are also great for young children and family pets. Whether they’re confident swimmers or not, all can enjoy the water and relax on the wading area’s shallow ledge. Add a bubbler or other fun water feature to make a little splash, and you have the perfect backyard pool oasis. However, for all the enjoyment built-in tanning ledges can bring to fiberglass pool owners, proper installation is essential for long-lasting enjoyment.

Properly backfilling under and around a fiberglass pool shell’s tanning ledge can be difficult. The tight spaces and voids the ledge creates at transition areas are hard to reach, and the varying grades needed for excavation add time, money, and potential headaches to the pool-building process. If the pool builder doesn’t backfill and install it correctly, a tanning ledge can develop a hollow or fragile feeling under your feet. Over time, the backfill material can shift and settle under the tanning ledge, leaving voids between the pool shell and the ground below.

How can you be sure the ledge in your tanning ledge pool will feel sturdy and as durable as the rest of the fiberglass shell? Ensure the installer is experienced with similar pool designs and understands proper tanning ledge installation. Various pool builders may have differing opinions about the best way to backfill underneath a tanning ledge, but some of the most reliable strategies include:

Enlist multiple resources. Getting the backfill material into every nook and cranny under a built-in tanning ledge is difficult, so pool builders must get creative. Your dealer might use various tools to force backfill material into tight spaces or have the crew’s smallest member squeeze into the small spaces to move material by hand.
Use a suitable backfill material. A clean chip stone that is three-eighths to three-quarters inch in size will make it easier for pool builders to move around and get into the tight spaces under the tanning ledge.
Use a flowable fill. Flowable fill is a self-compacting, low-strength material with a flowable consistency. If the pool builder has experience with flowable fill, it can be a good option for reaching those hard-to-reach areas under the tanning ledge. However, flowable fill is non-permeable, and dealers must account for groundwater and ensure proper drainage.
Excavate the ledge separately. When excavating the hole for your pool, installers should treat the tanning ledge as a separate pool bottom area with its own measurements. It’s also vital to consider freeze depths in your area. The backfill material should be at least as deep as your frost line.
Install Piers. Another option for supporting built-in tanning ledges is for the pool builder to install “piers” along the outside edges of the ledge. The process involves excavating to a point where the builder can stack level blocks forming a pier. They then level the blocks front to back and side to side before lowering the pool onto the pier. Piers should only add complementary support and leveling. Installers must still pack the entire underside of the ledge with backfill material.

If some of these strategies sound a little less sophisticated, it’s because they are. For years, they were the only sound options available to pool builders to support the tanning ledges. Not anymore.

Meet The Thursday Pools Backfill Eliminator®

The Backfill Eliminator® (US Patent 10,450, 766) is an exclusive Thursday Pools innovation that makes installing a tanning ledge easier, faster, and cost-effective with a stronger and more durable ledge over time. Pool builders used to consistently struggle with the aforementioned strategies for installing built-in tanning ledges, but purchasing a Backfill Eliminator® eliminates the need for older and near-obsolete strategies.

Thursday Pools engineers designed the Backfill Eliminator® to integrate into the bottom of your pool, allowing for a sturdy and level installation. It provides structural support to the tanning ledge and one continuous slope for excavation, making it as easy to install as any other fiberglass pool design.

The Backfill Eliminator® also allows groundwater to flow freely under your pool, eliminating the possibility of stagnant water accumulating underneath or excess groundwater lifting the pool. The device even includes a convenient access point to help builders reach essential plumbing components. The Backfill Eliminator® can work in tandem with Thursday Pools’ Geo-Anchoring Pool System, which helps homeowners secure their investment by providing extra strength to the pool structure.

Built-in features like a welcoming and relaxing tanning ledge are great for many types of people and pool activities, especially activities of the relaxing-in-a-lounger variety. Many fiberglass pool manufacturers provide pool specification sheets for their designs. If you ever need to know your current (or future) pool’s tanning ledge depth or size to figure out what other pool accessories will work in the unique space, contact a local dealer or the shell manufacturer directly. Are you ready to get in touch with a local independent dealer about your favorite Thursday Pools design with a tanning ledge? Reach out today to schedule a design consultation with a dealer in your area to learn more!

Ask The General: How Do You Prime the Pool Pump?

Posted on May 25, 2018June 14, 2021 by John Wigand

Dear General;

Everyone keeps telling me I have to prime the pump for my fiberglass pool. That’s all well and good. My question to you is, how in the heck am I supposed to do it? And how do I know when it’s done?

Signed– In a Perplexed Pool Pump Priming Pickle in Peru.

Dear Perplexed;

No need to be in a pool priming pickle. Honestly, I get this question all the time. You’re not alone. Let’s break this down together.

First of all… Let’s take a look at how water circulation systems work.

The key, believe it or not, is atmospheric pressure. There are approximately 14 pounds of air pushing down on all of us all the time. That means there’s the same amount of pressure pushing down on the surface of your fiberglass pool water. Your pool pump has a something called an “impeller” that creates a low pressure area by spinning. It pulls water into it, and pumps it back into the pool.

A “closed system” means NO AIR

Here’s the secret that explains it all. Your pool needs to be a CLOSED system to operate. Your pump, all your piping and everything that’s involved with the transferring of water from the pool into the pump, to the filter and back into the pool has to be full of water with NO AIR. A closed system is one that has NO AIR in it. All you have to do is stop and think “Where can air be introduced into the system?” (Did I mention NO AIR?)

Pool Pump Priming Checklist

Once we’re sure we have a closed system, check the following things:

Check your water level. If there’s air coming through the skimmers (Remember NO AIR?) it will make you lose prime, so you need to ensure you have proper water levels. Normally, the ideal water level is about halfway up the middle of your fiberglass pool’s skimmer or a little higher.
Check the skimmer’s “weir door”. The weir door is the little flapper in the mouth of the skimmer. If you see a clogged, full skimmer basket, clean it out.
Clear debris from main drain and check the piping at the equipment area. Make sure there is nothing that can allow air in, even things like the cap on the pipe used for winterization. It may need to be re-Teflon taped. Unions and ball valves may also need to be tightened.
Check the pump itself. Make sure pump is turned off, then take the lid off the pump basket, clean the pump basket and return it to the pump. Fill the basket with water and securely close the lid on the pump. Open the ball valves in front of the pump. (Before turning the pump on, I normally check the rest of the system to make sure the water can run through it.)
Check the valves. Make sure the valves are in the positions recommended by the manufacturer (usually instructions are on the filter.) Some filters (such as cartridge filters) don’t have veriflow valves, but they all have starting instructions. If you can’t find the instructions, look online.

Show time!

Once you’ve made sure everything is tightened, the return eyeballs (inlets) can allow water into your fiberglass pool, the drain plugs are secure, and the pump basket has been filled, it’s show time. Flip the pump switch. Did it start? If no, don’t despair, and don’t say bad words. It’s going to be okay.

Try this little trick:

Turn the switch off and check the GFI breaker in the electrical panel that controls the pump. Is it tripped? Flip the switch again. Are you in business now? Hallelujah!

Time to enjoy!

Now follow the manufacturer’s directions to put the system in “filter” mode. You will see the filter gauge rise to normal pressure. Water will be flowing into the pool, water will be spinning over the weir door into a full skimmer, no air will be coming out of the inlets, the pump basket will be clear of air, and you will have successfully primed the pool pump.

Now it’s time to grab a float and your beverage of choice and enjoy the pool.

Until next time…

The General

Who is The General?

Swimming Pool Water Chemistry 101

Posted on May 4, 2018May 24, 2024 by cargo

The summer swim season is heating up! As we’re planning the opening of our pools (or maybe even getting ready for the installation of a new one!), it’s a good time to review the importance of maintaining proper water chemistry. It’s crucial to the life of your pool and to your family’s health as well. The simplest way to ensure proper water chemistry is to stay on top of it from the day you open your pool. It’s much easier to be proactive than to restore the balance once it’s gone astray. Don’t be discouraged by the word “chemistry;” there are great tools to simplify the process and we’re going to break down the basics for you so that you maintain a crystal clear and swim-ready pool the whole summer.

Water Balance

Water balance is the interaction of the physical characteristics of water. It consists of pH, alkalinity, calcium hardness, temperature and total dissolved solids. Much like the ratios of sweet, salty and sour ingredients in a recipe, if the balance of one is off, it can throw off the whole dish. So let’s take a look at each one of those ingredients and how they can affect the life of your pool overall.

Acidity (pH)

pH is the standard notation for the “potency of hydrogen.” It’s the measure of the acidic nature of the water. The measurement scale for pH ranges from 0 to 14, with 7 being neutral. It is the opposite of alkalinity, and its job is to keep alkalinity in check. As you’ll see when we talk about alkalinity next, it can do some damage if left unchecked.

The recommended range for your total pH for most pools is a minimum of 7.2 ppm to a maximum of 7.6 ppm, with 7.4 to 7.6 ppm being ideal. The recommended range for fiberglass pools is 7.2-7.6 ppm)

Alkalinity (ALK)

Alkalinity is the measure of water’s ability to buffer itself from wide swings in pH. (So, it’s the yin to pH’s yang.) If your alkalinity is low, your water will become corrosive. This can cause stains on your pool’s surface. If your alkalinity is high, your water will become cloudy or scaly, with a white film. This can plug filters, which reduces circulation

The recommended range for your total alkalinity is a minimum of 60 ppm to a maximum of 180 ppm, with 80-100 ppm being ideal. The recommended range for fiberglass pools is 80-120 ppm.

Calcium Hardness (CH)

Next, let’s talk about calcium hardness (CH). Hard water in your pool, just like in your shower, can cause etching on your fiberglass pool’s surface, as well as pits in your concrete and pool deck and trouble with your grout, so it’s really important to keep your CH level under control.

The recommended range for your CH is a minimum of 150 ppm to a maximum 200 ppm. For fiberglass pools, you should stay on the lower end of the ideal range.

Temperature Factor (TF)

This one is pretty obvious, and it’s the only non-chemical factor in water balance. So, if you have a heater on your pool, it will be easier to control the temperature factor, but don’t get it too warm. Although you might enjoy a “bathwater” feel, you should try to keep it no warmer than 82℉ (28℃). Otherwise, that warm water can help bacteria thrive, which can make it harder to keep your water balanced.

Total Dissolved Solids (TDS)

TDS is any chemical that remains after the water evaporates. TDS can be measured chemically or electronically. The recommended TDS level is no more than 1500 ppm.

Saturation Index (SI)

Water balance overall is referred to as the saturation index, or SI. It’s the overall balance of pH, TF, CH and ALK. Water is considered balanced if the SI is between -0.3 and +0.3. Refer to the chart to calculate your Saturation Index.

Balanced Water is Not Synonymous with Healthy Water

It’s important to note that maintaining both balanced water and healthy water is essential. Sanitation and filtration are key to ensuring that your pool water is healthy and safe for your friends and family. Talk to your local pool professional about the steps you need to take for water sanitation and to ensure that your pool is filtering your water properly.

Tools to Help You With Water Balance

The really good news is that there are lots of great tools that will help you balance your water–super easy-to-use handheld calculators, test kits and even apps you can download on your smartphone or tablet. Taking just a few moments to familiarize yourself with water chemistry and staying on top of your water balance is easy and will help you enjoy an endless summer of carefree days swimming in your crystal-clear pool. Happy swimming!

How Do I Know If I Have A Groundwater Issue?

Posted on August 24, 2017April 3, 2024 by cargo

Groundwater is virtually everywhere. It lies below the earth’s surface in the cracks and spaces of soil, rock, clay, and sand. In some areas, it may be closer to the surface than in others. The upper level of which the ground saturates with water is known as the water table. Often homeowners know they have a ground water issue when they have a high-water table. Their yard may remain soft and wet for many days after rain. Your water table does vary over time and is generally at its highest later winter/ early spring. Even if you do not have a high-water table, you still need to be aware that ground water exists and can have damaging effects on your fiberglass pool if it is not accounted for properly.

Here are some ways you and your pool builder can prevent and reduce the risk of groundwater issues:

Install a well pit or sump pit. A well pit or sump pit is usually an 8”-10” corrugated pipe that runs from the top of the deck to 1’ below the deepest depth of an inground swimming pool. The well pit allows you the ability to visually see when groundwater is present and when necessary to be able to drop a pump to pump the groundwater away from the pool.

Install a perimeter drain. Install a perimeter drain around the base of the excavated pool area. A perimeter drain will provide the water an easy path to the well pit.

Maintain proper water level. Most groundwater damage to inground pools happens when a pool is empty, or the water level is low. This provides an easy opportunity for the groundwater pressure outside the pool to exceed the internal pressure of the pool.

Reroute downspouts. Ensure that downspouts are rerouted out and around the pool.

Regardless of whether or not you believe you have a groundwater issue, these simple steps can drastically reduce the risk of groundwater issues associated with inground pools. Talk to your pool builder about including them as part of your inground pool project.